This hardy plant. which is best planted in the spring, produces tiny, vividly blue, star-shaped flowers profusely from late spring to mid- or late summer though the bloom is more more sporadic later in the season. It grows densely and its dark-green leaves remain evergreen year-round in more southern climates with warm winters. Reaching modest heights of six to 10 inches, a single plant can slowly stretch 24 to 36 inches wide.

Light

While Lithodora thrives in full sun, it can also grow in partial shade. Give the plant afternoon shade in hotter climates. Protect from direct, hot sunlight and extreme winds until plants become established.

Soil

Provide moderately rich, well-drained, acidic soil, preferably sand. The plant does not tolerate heavy clay soil.

Water

Water newly planted Lithodora thoroughly at least once a week to encourage new roots to grow down deeply. Stick your finger in the soil to check that it remains damp about one inch below the surface. Do not let the soil become bone dry or soggy; overwatering could also cause root rot. One inch of rain per week should suffice.

Fertilizer

Generally, Lithodora does not require fertilizer unless the leaves turn pale green-yellow, which indicates nutrient deficiency. Use a fertilizer for acid-loving plants like rhododendron and azalea and avoid using granular fertilizers near the plant crown and foliage, as these may cause fertilizer burn. Instead, use a diluted slow-release fertilizer.

Temperature and Humidity

While some gardeners have managed to overwinter certain cultivars of this Mediterranean native in USDA Zone 5 or make it last in Zones 9 and 10, this herbaceous perennial is generally hardy in only Zones 6 through 8. It does not like extremely hot and humid conditions.

Lithodora Varieties

Most Lithodora are cultivars of Lithodora diffusa. Popular ones include:

‘Grace Ward’, a sprawling groundcover with deep blue flowers reaching 12 inches in height’White Star’, a patented cultivar with a mounded growth habit and vibrant white and blue flowers’Blue Star’, a low-growing cultivar whose deep blue flowers have white margins’Heavenly Blue’, a low-growing groundcover with hairy grey-green leaves and royal-blue flowers

Pruning

There are several things to consider when carefully pruning Lithodora. The plant may become straggly, and the stems or leaves may become damaged by cold winter temperatures. As you would do for any evergreen, wait until early spring to prune it. Remove any blackened leaves that could prevent new growth and possible disease. The plant can also be cut back after the flowering period ends in mid to late summer to refresh them and maintain the desired size. Remove any unwanted tall or leggy growth.

Propagating Lithodora

Unless propagation is prohibited because the plant is patented, Lithodora can be propagated by division in the early spring or fall: You can also propagate the plant from cuttings of established plants in mid- to late summer just as flowering comes to an end.

How to Grow Lithodora from Seed

Lithodora is mostly propagated vegetatively by commercial growers and sold as plants; seeds are not widely available. As many varieties are cultivars, the seeds from a Lithodora won’t produce a plant that is true to the parent and growing it from seed is therefore not recommended.

Potting and Repotting Lithodora

Lithodora grows well in a containers. Use a pot that is large enough to accommodate the root system and has large drainage holes because the plant does not like wet feet. Unglazed clay is ideal because it lets excess moisture evaporate. Fill the pot with a quality potting mix. Water it slowly and thoroughly until the soil is evenly moist. Like all container plants, potted Lithodora needs regular watering to keep the soil moist. When roots grow out of the drain holes, or the plant becomes root-bound, it’s time to transplant it to a large pot, or divide it and replant a section of it in a pot of the same size with fresh potting soil. Do this in the spring before the new growth starts.

Overwintering

When grown in the lower range of its temperature range (USDA zone 6), apply a thick layer of mulch to insulate the plant roots against the winter cold. Stems or leaves may still become damaged by cold winter temperatures but the plant should bounce back in the spring.

Common Pests and Plant Diseases

Usually, pests are not a problem. However, if aphids, spider mites, or whitefly appear on the plant, spray with insecticidal soap. Hot pepper wax may be used on mites and whitefly, too. In the event of a root-knot nematode invasion, plants may wilt or look stunted. Remove and discard the infected plants and reach out to your local extension service for advice. First signs of bacterial leaf spot are small translucent spots with a broad yellowish edge, which gradually enlarge and develop a reddish center. This disease thrives in cooler temperatures, and if the plant is in bloom, it may also cause disfigured flower heads. If this happens, remove any infected plants. To prevent future leaf spot, avoid overhead watering and refrain from working around wet plants where dirt and debris may mingle with the moisture and lead to further disease.

How to Get Lithodora to Bloom

In hot and humid weather, Lithodora tends to bloom less or stop blooming. If you can rule out other causes, such as lack of sunlight or overwatering, it might be that the plant is done blooming for the year but will bloom again next spring,